Japanese Urban Space

Chapter III: Steep and Gentle Slopes

Approaches to Shinto shrines on elevated sites generally take two paths. The Atago Shrine in Edo (modern-day Tokyo) overlooked the Shinagawa waterfront and most of the city of Edo, as well as offering a view of the hills of the Boso Peninsula across the bay. The main approach (omote-sando) to the shrine is comprised of an impossibly steep 85 stone steps, commonly known as the otoko-zaka (“men’s incline”). To the right of the stone steps rises a more gradual 108-step approach (waki-sando) called the onna-zaka, or “women’s incline.”

Although the principal difference between the two sets of steps is the slope, the variants made for distinct views and differently textured experiences. Shrine-goers would typically arrive via the otoko-zaka and exit by the onna-zaka, and at crowded festival times the twin paths effectively provided smooth one-way passages for worshippers.

The dual approach system became commonplace in shrines throughout Japan from the 17th century on, as [codified] Shinto gained popularity, especially among women.

Today, in Tokyo alone, we may find this pattern at the Yushima Tenjin shrine, Ichigaya Hachiman shrine, and Iigura Hachiman shrine. The gradual onna-zaka of the latter two shrines have since been converted to automobile driveways, perhaps indicating that the male/female or class divisions of feudal times have now been supplanted by human/machine hierarchies.